Getting up/Getting Off

Hardly anyone has actually freed the crux 16 th pitch (rated 5.10c, but more like stiff 5.11) of the LFT since Steve Levin, Mark Robinson, and Sandy Stewart made the FFA in 1977. It’s a dirty, wet roof. A perfect hand crack beckons to the left, however the topo calls this temptation A1 to 5.9 R. If your ethics allow it, just stay on route, pull on a piece and get it over with.

Many parties cut left on the last two pitches, avoiding the 5.8 OW. This 60-meter stretcher is dirty and loose. Best to stay on route — this way you won’t have to scramble around on top trying to find the rap route.
Take extra care coming down the first two raps from the top — these are notorious rope snatchers. Don’t forget a knife. Worst case, you can cut a snagged rope and continue down. In fact, it’s not a bad idea to pack an emergency 50-meter 6-millimeter cord.
In 2000, rappel stations were added on the right side of the belay ledge on pitch 10, keeping you to the right and outside of the chimneys — take these. The last rap is a doozy, especially in a storm, where you’ll be forced to rap directly down a waterfall. Luckily it’s the last rap!